Restaurant Review: Parsi feast that goes much beyond the dhansak

That’s when we chanced upon Batlivala and Khanabhoy, perhaps the only restaurant in the city that offers Parsi cuisine. Though there are small Iranian teashops off Mount Road in Conran-Smith Road, Woods Road and Walltax Road, serving bun maska and choi (tea). But they stop at just that. 

As we made our way into the cozy eatery in Alwarpet, climbing a narrow fleet of stairs, vintage advertisement signs adorned on walls painted in mishmash of eclectic colours welcomed us. Portraits of Parsi families graced another wall, while an old fashioned radio nestled itself amid a row of tables. The diner is run by VM Hospitality, that also runs the Ethiopian restaurant Abyssinian and the Maharashtrian eatery Meena Tai’s in the same premises. 

Straight and simple, the menu gives the customer an overview of the composition of every dish and as opposed to popular perception, it has more than just dhansak (mutton cooked in a mixture of lentils and vegetables) to offer. To the uninitiated, meats, lentils and eggs form the integral components of Parsi food, followed by fish and desserts. Meanwhile, vegetables are usually jazzed up, from time to time, with eggs. 

We started our meal with the cheese eeda cutlets. It is a traditional dish made using boiled eggs, cheese, green chillies and coriander held together in a subtle and creamy béchamel sauce. It was appetising. We also tried the chicken Russian pattice — subtly flavoured chicken patties that served as the perfect accompaniment to the fragrant Parsi choi, which was a melange of flavours of mint, ginger, lemongrass and cardamom. Next in line was bharuchi akoori, a dish from Bharuch, a small coastal town in Gujarat, that used to be populated by Parsis. The dish made with hard boiled eggs drizzled with dry fruits and ghee was a little too subtle to relish. I didn’t find it flavourful.

We hit the main course with the freshly buttered pav (bread) served with spicy kheema (minced mutton). We literally licked the kheema off the plate. Then came in the staple sali boti (tender goat meat in a sweet and sour tomato gravy and topped with potato sticks). This is a must try and absolutely delicious accompaniment to plain rice or another Parsi favourite, the berry pulao. However, it was the chicken dhansak, brown rice and kachumber (a kind of salad), that was the highlight of the evening. The contrast of flavours and textures were a delight — everything from the tanginess of the tamarind in the kachumber, the crunch of the sliced onions, the flavourful dhansak — was spot on. This combo is highly recommended. Last but not the least, it was time to satiate our sweet tooth cravings. Much like their starters and main course, the Parsis know their desserts. We were treated to malai kulfi that was rich in flavour. However, it was the kopra pak shot — fudge made with fresh coconut, milk solids, rosewater and nutmeg served in a shot glass — that was a clear winner. The mildly sweet dessert was happiness in a glass.

Cuisine: Parsi cuisine 

Contact: 82205 55448 

Rating: 3 out of 5 stars