Discovering Jaipur in the lap of luxury

Upon reaching Jaipur on a Friday afternoon, a fellow journalist and I were picked up from the airport by a cheerful chauffeur. We were in the city for a media familiarisation tour (FAM) organised by Accor Hotels. 

On the way to the hotel, I realised the city was much different than I’d imagined. It was a refreshing change from the corporate jungle that is Chennai. While there was development on one side with corporate buildings and high-rise residential apartments, on the other, the city had also retained its old-world charm and its historic past dotted with palaces and forts. 

After a 30-minute drive, we reached Fairmont Jaipur, Fairmont Hotels & Resorts’ first property in India. As we entered the property that seemed like a re-imagination of a traditional Mughal palace, we were welcomed with drums, a garland and tika, a precursor to the taste of royalty we would be treated to. 

After walking through a pavilion with lots of greenery, we entered the hotel’s lobby that looked nothing short of a palatial hall adorned with beautiful chandeliers, intricately designed carpets and regal furniture. We were then escorted into our rooms which also reflect the Mughal influence, with lobed arches and the use of strong colours like distressed gold and rich turquoise. 

Each of our rooms had tasteful timber furniture and Portuguese colonial-inspired four poster beds. A beautifully crafted glass door opened into a spacious bathroom. Its striking floors have a complex geometrical pattern of stars and lozenges in the Islamic tradition. 

We then headed for lunch at Zoya, that boasts a world cuisine menu with a dedicated section to Rajasthani fare highlighting heritage dishes from the royal households. Following a sumptuous lunch, we were then given a quick tour of the palatial hotel. 

The 199-room property, vast and opulent, yet intimate and residential, makes each visitor feel like an honoured guest of the Mughal era. Warm low lighting throughout the hotel gives a welcome and intimate feel, while vintage Shekhawati furniture, carved silver antiques, the large velvet pankha in the lobby and the rich upholstery makes you feel like nothing less than a royal yourself. 

Other amenities include spa, a fitness centre with sauna, steam and hot bath and business centre. A conference centre, one of the largest in the region, provides a striking venue for weddings. 

The Grand Ballroom features a soaring, hand-painted decorative ceiling and intricate grill detailing on the walls, evoking the palace windows from which the women of the court would watch the proceedings. In a nutshell, the hotel is a living palace that gracefully combines the glories of the past with modern day comforts. 

Leisure, adventure and sport are pivotal activities. Ranging from hot air ballooning, mountaineering at the Aravalli hills, elephant rides, picnics and a stroll through the nearby village, a guided tour to the city’s most popular attractions, the hotel has a vast list of itineraries planned. 

Later in the evening, we were treated to a mixology session at Anjum, where Tanmay the bartender, entertained us with some never-seen-before combinations as he skilfully emptied them into glasses one after the other. 

We finished the day with a delectable dinner at the Indo-Persian restaurant Zarin which was hosting a festival, ‘Forgotten recipes of Persia’, in view of the Persian New Year, Navroz. We indulged in nadroo ke gular — a flavourful preparation of golden fried minced lotus stem pots, stuffed soft cottage cheese with the crunch of pine nuts. 

We also tried dal Zarin — steaming warm mixed lentils gently cooked in tomato sauce, milk with a dash of saffron. However, my favourite was aab gosht — lamb cooked with chickpea, white beans, finished with garden fresh herbs. It warmed the heart with its heady flavour. 

After a good night’s sleep and breakfast at Zoya, we head out to explore Jaipur. Our first destination was Amer Fort. With its large ramparts and series of gates and cobbled paths, the fort overlooks Maota Lake. It is the main source of water for the Amer Palace. 

Constructed of red sandstone and marble, the attractive, opulent palace is laid out on four levels, each with a courtyard. As we made our way through the various levels, we also discovered that this is where popular Bollywood films like Jodha Akbar and Bajirao Mastani were shot. 

The best part of the fort is, however, the Sheesh Mahal which is exquisitely embellished with glass inlaid panels and multi-mirrored ceilings. The mirrors are of convex shape and designed with coloured foil and paint which would glitter bright under candlelight at the time it was in use. 

As we climbed up further, another attraction we got to see was Kesar Kyari Bagh (saffron garden), floating like a huge Persian carpet on a large stone terrace rising from the centre of the Maota lake. According to our guide, the garden was planted with saffron plants so that the scent could waft up to the palace. 

We then headed back to the hotel where we were treated to inroom dining experience followed by a special bath. It was exactly what we needed after a day out in the rising mercury. In the evening, we set out to the city where we discovered its myriad moods and hues. 

While on one side there were hordes of tourists and locals trying to strike a bargain for colourful and elegantly patterned jhootis , on the other we saw foodies binging on local street food like gol gappas, pyaaz kachori, dal bati churma and sweets like dil khushal . We also went past the five-storeyed pyramidal shaped monument Hawa Mahal. 

Constructed of red and pink sandstone, the palace beautifully lit in the night is a photographer’s delight. Before we finally retired to our rooms after sharing our thoughts on our experience with our wonderful hosts over drinks, we tried all the local favourites we’d been longing to. 

While the list was long, my absolute favourite was laal maas — tender mutton cooked in a super spicy sauce of curd and red chillies – I licked it off my fingers. As I headed back to my room to catch a few hours of sleep before my flight back to Chennai, I couldn’t help but revel in the memories of what had been a truly special experience, one where I was exposed to royal and warm hospitality, delectable food and fascinating history.