Succession, standards worry Singapore hawkers

There are over 100 hawker centres and 6,000 stalls in Singapore, run mainly by ageing chefs, with people from all sections of society attracted to the tasty multi-ethnic meals that cost as little as S$2.80 ($2). But the tough working conditions in the small, basic kitchens and low profits have led many new chefs to look to larger, modern restaurants for bigger revenues. 

Some experienced hawker sellers in Singapore believe the younger generation don’t have what it takes to succeed in the trade. Alex See, 66 runs a Fried Hokkien Mee (fried noodles) stall in East Coast with his daughter (33). “Young people are not serious about learning,” he said. “When I was helping my father at the age of 16, I asked him questions every day to learn so that I can beat him at it. I do not think I have beaten my old man yet, it’s a tie.”

Last month, two Singapore hawkers became the first street food sellers in the world to be awarded a prestigious Michelin star. For one, success will not mean increased prices. CH Meng, 51, was awarded a Michelin star for his soya sauce chicken at Chinatown food centre stall. “The star came to me as a surprise, I never expected that hawker food will win such an award,” he said. “But with it comes added responsibility, to maintain the standard of the dish and to keep the star...but I will not raise prices, at the end, its the customer that matters.”