Restaurant Review: Dhaba style food meets fine-dining restaurant

The first thing that pops into one’s mind when they think of the Northwest India and provinces that were part of this land before Independence, is meat. “Since the region specialises in kebabs and curries, mostly non-vegetarian, we carefully select the meat. We don’t get pre-cut pieces from butchers but the entire cadaver itself. Our in-house team then carefully cuts it according to the dishes it will be used in,” explains Chef Manikandan. For instance, the meatier parts are used in gravies, the legs get made into kebabs and the head and tail are used to flavour soups.

The rest of the ingredients are sourced locally too because he likes to monitor the quality before use. Speaking of ingredients, every single dish on the restaurant’s Bukhara Thali has a unique flavour that lends it character. The paneer korma was a delight because one doesn’t normally associate cottage cheese with coconut, but this dish combined these two ingredients to deliver a subtle, wholesome side dish. The masala kulcha too had a surprise element. Instead of the trademark onion and green chilli stuffing, it had picked jalapeños chopped into tiny bits.

Similarly, the macher jhol (a la carte) is a fish curry with brinjal and potato made in Kolkata. It was packed with taste thanks to the tomato-onion gravy cooked in mustard oil and what added the golden touch was kalonji seeds. After all, creating new dishes inspired by the culinary history of our country. Isn’t this what one looks for in good food?

The restaurant is promoting quite the offer by serving two pints of beer along with either the vegetarian or non-vegetarian signature kebab platter, if customers opt for it. After a long day at work, this could be just the combination one might want to dig into. The prawn kebab definitely hits the right note and the mutton nearly slides off the bone but the chicken, during our tasting, disappointed because it was a tad overcooked.

A chef in the city once asked us who could ever imagine rosewater and onions tasting nice? It got us thinking but then he reminded us of biryani, a dish that beautifully marries these contrasting ingredients. At Dhaba Diner too, the long strands of rice, tender meat and signature masala brought together by whole spices and caramelised onions is a diner’s delight.

As kids, when there was leftover sugar syrup from gulab jamun, we would dunk pieces of bread into it, cook it on the tava, sprinkle some saffron and cardamom powder over it and call it ‘Shahi ka tukda.’ Chef Manikandan’s version, though made with condensed milk and assorted nuts, brought back sweet memories of those days and certainly lived up to expectations.

Dhaba Diner: Address: 21, Periyar Road, T. Nagar

Cuisine: Northwest Indian

Contact: 044 30257955

Timing: 11.30 am to 3.30 pm, 7 to 11 pm 

 Must-have: Masala chaas, galuti kebab, machiajwain, station ka ghost