Celebrating traditional weaves and crafts in sarees

She loves to explore India’s diverse and celebrated surface detail techniques on different weaves like batik, ajrakh, kalamkari, handblocks, pipli appliqué, etc.

The designer’s latest collection, Textile Tales, that’s on display in the city is a happy fusion and coming together of different weaves and detailing. Each creation speaks a narrative that is so unique and compelling to the viewer.One of the highlights of her exhibit is the sarees that are woven in Assam. “It has taken more than two years for the first set of sarees from the Karbi collection to get ready. These have been woven by the strong and resilient group of women weavers in Assam, who are trying to keep the tradition of weaving alive despite adversities they face in lives. Since they used to weave the traditional silk mekhla chadars, they had to be initially trained to weave the sarees in cotton which was quite a challenge. They have started loving the outcome and I am hoping that getting the future collections ready will be a smoother ride. The typical motifs are mostly geometric made with extra weft using the drawbow and the nangal technique and a saree with an elaborate pallu takes almost a month to be woven. The women weave only after they complete their daily chores, making the process slow and the motifs look like embroidery done on the loom,” explains Rema.

Since she has been working with a lot of weaving centres over the last two years, you can see a wide variety of sarees in the new collection. “Cotton sarees woven in Mandapeta, Andhra, Chanderi, Maheshwari and Benaresi in a varying colour palette of brights and muted shades, the rich silk tussar twills woven in Champa in jewel tones and the Karbi weaves from Assam are highlights of this exhibition. They have been detailed with handblocks, patti ka kaam (appliqué work from Aligarh), pipli appliqué from Odisha, ajrakh, batik, kalamkari, zardosi, ariwork and doriwork. Dupattas also come in a wide range of weaves and surface embellishments adding a touch of drama to one’s kurta ensemble. The mix and match collection of blouses add an interesting twist to any saree creating a unique style statement by the wearer,” shares the designer.