From traditional Kancheepuram silk sarees to comfortable kurtas and salwar suits, how the Margazhi style statement is evolving

CHENNAI: Kutcheri-filled sabhas paint a vibrant picture of Chennai during the Margazhi season. While audiences eagerly anticipate concerts and dance performances, the season also highlights the beauty of traditional attire. Style statements, both on and off stage, are carefully curated. As the city comes alive with the Margazhi spirit, we spoke to performers and rasikas to learn how they choose their looks for the sabha season.

Though Carnatic vocalist and playback singer S Mahathi is busy with her concert schedule, she always prepares her concert wardrobe. “During Margazhi season, I wear a new set of sarees, which I’ve accumulated throughout the year, starting with Pongal festival. Carnatic music and traditional attire go hand in hand. I prefer wearing Kancheepuram silk sarees for concerts because they represent the essence of our culture. Concerts are a visual medium, and performers need to be well-presented. However, our attire shouldn’t overpower the performance or distract the audience; it should complement the music. I believe that a musician's attire reflects their attitude on stage. I don’t go for sober colours – I enjoy wearing bright, vibrant shades and match my saree with the appropriate jewellery,” says Mahathi.

For Mahathi, comfort on stage is just as crucial as looking well-presented. “While I might love a heavy jhumki, I wouldn’t wear it for a concert. What matters most is that I should feel comfortable and confident on stage. My attire should be well-coordinated and allow me to perform freely. As a seasoned singer, you instinctively know what to wear for each performance and how to strike the perfect balance between style and comfort.”

The musician believes that Carnatic music should be presented with grandeur. She also observes the effort the audience puts into preparing for concerts. “My mother loves attending concerts, and I’ve noticed how she, along with her friends and other family members, carefully plans their attire. They shop for sarees and coordinate them with the occasion. I’ve also noticed how male performers are increasingly paying attention to their costumes, adding a personal touch, which is a refreshing change,” says the musician. For Mahathi, red and pink are her go-to colours, though lately, she’s also embraced pastel shades in her wardrobe.

Praveen Sparsh, a multi-percussionist, says, "I don’t have a separate avatar for the Margazhi music season; it’s an extension of my personality. I wear the same kind of kurtas, but I do have a particular style I prefer. Initially, I only wore khadi and earthy colours. A friend once pointed out that all my clothes looked very serious, and that got me thinking – why should I be so serious about dressing? Now, I’m exploring brighter colours a bit more. For example, I would never have considered wearing a magenta colour kurta before, but now I find them intriguing. I think it's a shift in perspective. I also like wearing wooden bead chains. Recently, my partner, Shreya Devnath, and I went on a holiday to Cambodia, where I picked up a lot of chains from the streets. Wearing a chain was once a big deal for me – I was almost against it when I was younger. But now, I’m comfortable with it and enjoy wearing one.”

A few years ago, the musician switched from wearing a veshti to dhoti pants. “While a veshti looks classy, I value freedom of movement. We walk from the parking lot to the stage, and sometimes after our concert, we often attend other performances. For all these activities, I found dhoti pants to be much more comfortable, offering greater flexibility."

Praveen’s favourite colours are earthy tones – off-whites, greys, and browns. “I feel complete when I wear these colours. The one exception is black – I’d choose it any day,” he smiles.

For Carnatic flute exponent JA Jayant, blue and green are his favourite colours. "My sense of dressing has evolved over the years. There was a time when I used to buy my kurtas from high-end brands. But nowadays, I buy the fabric and have it stitched according to my preferences. I work with a designer who customises my kurtas. I also plan my costumes well in advance to ensure there's no repetition, at least during that particular season,” shares Jayant.

Like many rasikas, actor, theatre artist, and author Janaki Sabesh looks forward to the Margazhi season. “Margazhi holds a special place in everyone’s heart. There’s so much excitement – musicians and dancers from around the world come here to perform. It’s truly a grand festival. I’ve noticed people shopping for new clothes in preparation for the music season. With events happening across the city and sabha pandals offering delicious food, the festival continues to grow in scale,” says Janaki.

“I enjoy dressing up for the events, often mixing and matching my sarees and blouses. When the curtain rises, I’m also excited to see what the musicians and performers are wearing,” adds the actor.

Sabita Radhakrishna, a textile researcher and designer notes that while Kancheepuram sarees and diamond jewellery were once commonly worn by rasikas, they are less common now. “What I’ve noticed is that many women are opting for silk cotton sarees. The younger audience, in particular, prefers comfortable clothing like salwar suits, and even jeans and tops. Comfort has become the key factor in their choices,” opines Sabita.