‘Oon soru from Sangam era and biryani share similarities’

CHENNAI: Tamil Nadu possesses a rich and vibrant culinary heritage, with specialised micro cuisines. To highlight this, Sangamithirai at Feathers invites people to immerse themselves in the traditional Chettinad, Madurai, and Kongunadu cuisines.

As we entered the restaurant, the ambience stood out with many elements like kolam, Thanjavur dolls, cheeni mittai, pori urundai, thaen mittai and much more.

Chef Murthi from the hotel has travelled to more than 70 villages across the state to meticulously curate the menu. He has brought in a few traditional, long-lost recipes. “I researched food in the Sangam era and was fascinated by the connectivity. Around 2000 years ago, ellu thovayal was mentioned in Purananooru, which is prepared even today majorly in Thoothukudi. Apart from mutton and chicken, rabbit and quails were also consumed those days. Instead of oil, ghee was predominantly used. One of the Kadai Ezhu Vallalgal, Pari, fed his people with oon soru. Oon means meat and soru is rice, which is quite similar to biryani. Many believe that biryani was introduced by the Persians in India but we consumed it before that,” says chef Murthi. He wishes to take the guests on a nostalgic ride and recreate the cherished moments connected with food.

Apart from this, four home chefs from Madurai, Karaikudi, Mettur and Thanjavur are here to showcase the traditional dishes from the regions. This adds extra glow to the heritage fervour. The menu is changed at regular intervals. “We have a lot of dishes to serve. But have carefully filtered and featured those that will suit people from all age groups,” adds the chef. The set menus are named after Tamil Nadu’s iconic rivers, including Cauvery, Vaigai, Thamirabarani, Pennai, Bhavani, Siruvani and Amaravathi.

“In the ancient Tamil literature, around 150 varieties of rice are mentioned. From that, I have taken eight varieties and also millets to emphasise that eating these is not only healthy but very much a part of our traditions. All the pickles, vadams and chutneys are in-house,” chef Murthi shares. “Except water and air from that particular region, I have tried to bring in the authentic ingredients and flavours in the delicacies,” smiles the chef. “Every food on the menu will tell a story that will bring back your childhood memories,” he adds.

From the extensive menu, we started with the Vallarai milagu rasam and nattu kozhi saaru. Both were high on pepper. In the starters, the yeral kola urundai and Salem pichu potta kozhi are a must-try. The mutton uppu kari was good, however, the meat was a bit tough. We loved everything in the vegetarian starters, especially the javvarisi vadai, which has both chewy and crispy textures to it.

The kari meen kozhambu tasted quite different because chicken was made the way a fish curry is prepared. Kaadai nei varuval was bland. The Keeranur kozhi kuzhambu was top-notch and paired well with the flaky Virudhunagar poricha parotta. Beiri, which is like poori, was unique and is a Madurai special dish. Milagu kuzhambu and paruppu urundai kuzhambu went well with rice. The oon soru, which is the Dindigul style kozhi biryani, was flavourful and should be on your list.

Finally came the desserts, kadalai paruppu susiyam aced the list with its crispy covering and soft jaggery filling with a subtle sweetness. Akkaravadisal tasted great but required more amount of ghee.

If you are someone who delves deep into the authentic and traditional flavours of Tamil Nadu cuisine, do visit the Karikalan Virunthu food festival, which is happening till August 31.