Memsahib’s guide to Anglo Indian food

The founding day of Madras is considered to be August 22. On the occasion of Madras Day, we take a look at two 16th century Anglo-Indian recipes, which are synonymous with city’s colonial heritage

By :  migrator
Update: 2016-08-29 12:08 GMT
(L) Railway Lamb Curry and (R) Country Captain Chicken Curry

Chennai

RAILWAY LAMB CURRY

Railway mutton curry or first class railway mutton (lamb) curry is a spicy Indian curry dish supposedly served in all ‘first class compartments’ on Indian trains. It is a variation of the mutton dish that originated during the British Raj colonial-era. The story behind this curry is that an English army officer was hungry while travelling in a train and went to the pantry car where a spicy mutton curry was being prepared. However, it was too spicy to his liking. The obliging cook reduced the spice with the infusion of coconut milk and served it to him. He absolutely loved it. From that day on, this recipe became popular with frequent travellers!

Ingredients:

Lamb cubes along with bone: 800 gms 

Vegetable oil: 100 ml

Cinnamon: 2 sticks 

Bay leaves: 4 

Cardamom, green: 6 

Onions (large), sliced: 300 gms

Ginger-garlic paste: 2 tbsp 

Kashmiri chili powder : 2 tbsp 

Red chili powder: ½ tsp 

Coriander powder: 2 tbsp 

Cumin powder: 1 tbsp 

Salt: to taste 

Tomato puree: 300 gms 

Garam masala powder: ½ tsp 

Coriander leaves: to garnish

Method:

  • Heat oil in a large frying pan, add cinnamon, cardamom and bay leaf; sauté for a minute and add sliced onions. 
  • Cook over medium heat, stirring occasionally to ensure even browning of the onions. Reduce the heat as the onions begin to brown. 
  • Once the onions are a nice golden brown, add ginger-garlic paste, followed by the ground spices and salt. 
  • Stir well and cook for a further 5 minutes over a medium flame. 
  • Now add in the diced lamb, stir well and cook for about 30 minutes over a low-medium heat. (Sprinkle water if it begins to get too dry) 
  • Next add the tomato puree and simmer for further 20 minutes or until the lamb is tender. 
  • Check seasoning and finish with a sprinkling of garam masala powder and chopped coriander leaves, serve hot.

COUNTRY CAPTAIN CHICKEN CURRY

Country Captain chicken curry is another popular recipe from the colonial times. In the 1800s, British trade ships in India, were called ‘Country Ships’ and their Captains were known as ‘Country Captains’. Country Captain Chicken was a popular dish at their tables and got its name through this association!

Ingredients:

Chicken, cut into medium size: 1 kg 

Onions, sliced: 300 gms 

Chili powder: 2 tsp 

Turmeric powder: 1 tsp 

Oil: 2 tbsp 

Salt: to taste 

Garlic paste: 2 tbsp 

Cinnamon: 2 sticks 

Cloves: 4 nos 

Cardamoms: 2 nos 

Whole pepper corns: 6or 8 nos 

Dry red chili, broken into bits: 1 nos 

Chopped garlic: 2 tsp 

Coriander leaves: to garnish

Method:

  • Heat oil in a pan and fry the onions and chopped garlic lightly. 
  • Add the chicken and mix in the garlic paste. Sauté for about 5 minutes on medium heat. 
  • Add the chili powder, turmeric powder, cinnamon, cloves, cardamom, red chilies, peppercorns and salt. Add half a cup of water and cook till the chicken is tender and the gravy is quite thick. 
  • Garnish with chopped coriander.

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