Exploring Edible Weeds: A walk in the park to consume the wild greens

CHENNAI: Not so long ago, Forgotten Greens, a group of naturalists, ventured into the Kotturpuram Corporation Park and mapped out around 15 plants, identifying them as medicinal and edible, thus learning about the surroundings through a microscopic view.

Founded by Shruti Tharayil, for whom biodiversity her journey, she tells DT Next talks about the formulation of Forgotten Greens and its impact on human life in the longer run. Excerpts follow:

How was Forgotten Greens formed?

My disconnect with nature lasted until I was well into my 20s when I was working with a NGO in Telangana after my post-graduation. My work required me to spend plenty of time with farmers from Dalit, Adivasi and other rural communities. That was the first time I felt a connection with the natural world opening up to me. While interacting and engaging with women farmers, I became fascinated with their interactions with the plants in their ecosystem, especially the uncultivated plants. It was then I began documenting how they cooked the uncultivated plants, and the realities of food sovereignty playing out in these communities. This opened up the world of Forgotten Greens in 2018. I began learning about new plants which were labelled as ‘weeds’ but, they can be, and in most instances, are an integral part of our food system. After six years of engagement with the rural communities, I decided to move back to the city where I began yearning to connect with nature once more. As I began to pay close attention around me, I realised to my surprise, nature exists in its own way even in concrete jungles. I started actively looking around for uncultivated edibles and began foraging them. As an outpouring of my love for uncultivated plants and the role they play in the food system, I began Forgotten Greens as a social media initiative – a page to share about plants and recipes I have learned about. Today, Forgotten Greens has evolved into an entity of its own, encompassing themes around decolonising food systems, urban foraging and traditional knowledge systems. Forgotten Greens began as an expression of the joy of discovering wild edible plants in our neighbourhood. Traditionally part of India’s food systems, these plants have gradually been forgotten due to rapidly changing foodscapes. What began as a Facebook page evolved into a dynamic project with various initiatives to revive the knowledge of consuming wild edible greens from mainland India. We conduct ethnographic research with diverse communities to document their knowledge and offer unique walks.

What is the Wild Food Walk about?

Wild Food Walk aims to bring denizens together and collectively deepen their understanding of local ecosystems. We have conducted walks in Bengaluru, New Delhi, Coimbatore, Surat, Udaipur, Thrissur, and in Chennai before.

This time on, the walk in Chennai aims to introduce participants to the fascinating world of wild and medicinal plants that commonly grow across the city. It provides an opportunity to learn about, identify, taste, smell, and feel the textures of these plants. Moreover, the experience challenges the notion that wild food only thrives in forests, emphasising that it can also be found in urban environments. During the Wild Food Walk in Chennai, participants will learn about wild edible and medicinal greens. Additionally, the walk aims to transform their perspective on wild food and medicine, highlighting its abundance and significance within urban landscapes.

Should participants be worried about side-effects while consuming these wild plants?

Before introducing a plant to participants, I make sure to consume it myself first and incorporate it into my daily diet. I observe its effects and familiarise myself with its taste, pairings, and overall usability. Only when I’m completely confident about its safety and culinary potential do I present it to my audience or participants. Apart from this, I also learn from the knowledge holders — communities in rural landscapes – for whom this is a part of daily life. Their insights make it easier to share this information with others.

What is the core difference that you have seen in terms of the urban edibles, specifically in Chennai, as compared to other places?

Each landscape has its unique flora, which varies from place to place. Even within Chennai, walks conducted in Kottivakkam and Kotturpuram have revealed different ranges of plants. However, Chennai boasts a strong presence of greens, including Phyllanthus Amarus, Boerhavia Diffusa, Commelina Benghalensis, and Acalypha Indica, to name a few. This is an excellent season to explore wild greens in Chennai, thanks to the recent rains.

How receptive have Chennaiites been to such wild food walks?

Participants come from a wide range of professions, including doctors, nature educators, culinary enthusiasts, and even movie actors. This diversity shows that the knowledge we gain from the walks is for everyone and not limited to a specific group. Each time I announce a walk, we receive an enthusiastic response. Tamil Nadu has a rich tradition of incorporating keerai (greens) into the daily diet, and this walk enhances and helps preserve that knowledge system.

The Wild Food Walk will be held on Sunday at Adyar between 7.30 am to 9.30 am. For details, call 8590068015, or email forgottengreen@gmail.com