Saffron, dried fruits and rose water: Nowruz brings Persian flavours to Chennai

CHENNAI: It was 45 years ago, in 1980, that Nasrin Karimi moved to Madras from Iran following the aftermath of the 1979 revolution. She made the city her home. She has two siblings; one wanted them to move to Europe for education, while the other loved India. She became a stained-glass artist. However, she always found comfort in cooking her native cuisine, which is Iranian or Persian.

“I have seen the transition of Madras to Chennai, and all I cherish are pleasant memories. I took up stained-glass painting and, wherever I went, I always had a functional kitchen and a garden. My friends suggested I open a café, but despite cooking being my passion, I have refused,” begins Nasrin, who didn’t wish to turn her passion into a profession.

An invitation from the Cholamandal Artists’ Village to open a café marked Nasrin’s entry into the culinary world. “The café became a hit among Chennaiites within two years. I have never grown tired of the work because the best part of the business is meeting new people,” she says.

The culinary artisan is now conducting a pop-up at Hyatt Regency Chennai, showcasing the diverse flavours of Persian cuisine. Nasrin is excited because today is the Iranian New Year, heralding the start of the spring season.

Discussing the speciality of Persian cuisine, the home chef shares, “The cuisine offers balanced and healthy food. It’s neither too spicy nor oily and is always accompanied by a simple salad or a basket of fresh herbs. Iranians love rice, and we prepare various types of pulao, using plenty of saffron. Moreover, for desserts, we incorporate a large amount of rose water,” she adds, “And let’s not forget, dried fruits also play a significant role in Persian kitchens.”

When asked about the prominent ingredients and predominant flavours in Iranian cuisine, Nasrin lists saffron as the most important. “For rice, we use basmati, and to a certain extent, there are many similarities between Indian and Persian cuisines,” she reveals. The stained-glass artist and home chef feels that the difference between these cuisines lies in the absence of chilli flavour in Iranian food.

Regarding cooking techniques, she introduces us to ‘dam’ in rice. “It is a process where we partially cook the rice, add spices, and then seal it again to steam. This makes the rice fluffier and enhances the taste,” the 63-year-old explains.

Nasrin is quite surprised by the growing culinary scene in Chennai. “The city is familiar with Chinese, tandoor, and other continental flavours. It is remarkable to witness the reception for Thai, Korean, and Japanese cuisines. Nowadays, people do not hesitate to try new dishes, which paves the way for healthy growth in the industry,” she concludes.

Indulge in the Persian feast at the Nowruz pop-up, running until today at Hyatt Regency Chennai.