Kurinji: Documenting community cuisines of Western Ghats

CHENNAI: Kurinji, mullai, marutham, neithal and paalai are five types of lands mentioned in ancient Tamil literature. Each land has its unique flavours that are influenced by the people and geographical location of the land.

Kurinji includes hills and hill-related places. Chennai is all set to witness the Kurinji food festival, focusing on the savours from the Western Ghats. Celebrity chef and historian Rakesh Raghunathan is curating the special with indigenous flavours from the mountains.

“I always wanted to research and document community cuisines. Through this food festival, I wish to create awareness and showcase the produce that is unique to Western Ghats. This food festival aims to bridge the gap between the past and the present by incorporating recipes that were significant in the past. There are a few ingredients like cheese to give a modern touch,” says Rakesh. He has deconstructed the Palani prasadham. Talking to DT Next about the idea, he shares, “According to me, food is a medium to tell stories to people. All the ingredients used in panjamirtham are collected by the tribes of that particular region, giving a hint that maybe the prasadham has some connection to them.”

Rakesh predicts that micro cuisines such as Virudhunagar, Karaikudi and Thanjavur, among others, will take centre stage this year. “Nowadays, people want to understand what they are eating. The connection and the background story to know what they are eating and its significance as well,” elucidates the chef. He also feels that the food of tribals and indigenous communities is an interesting cuisine to explore. “Sadly, the current generation from these communities eat dishes like biryani and rasam. But, one can get the traditional recipes from the elderly people in that settlement.

The specially curated menu starts with soups. The cauliflower soup with local pavazham beans and the potato cheddar soup had a distinctive taste. However, the chicken dumpling in fresh turmeric soup was not as expected. Among the starters, the smoked hill garlic and cardamom-scented sweet potato roundel aced the list. The cashew cream sauce was an added advantage.

Avocado and corn fritters had more corn flavour than avocado. In the non-veg options, the herb-fried chicken that is panko-fried was scrumptious. As Kodaikanal had a Tibetian influence, the delicious mutton momos were served to pay tribute. 

Both the Kodai Buddha bowl and roast chicken herb salad were dominated by citric flavour.

All the main dishes that were served, had an influence of cheese. The stuffed mushroom casserole was good, while the potato and pea gratin had an overpowering cheese taste. The herbed chicken served with bamboo rice was toothsome.

Desserts were clearly the showstoppers. It includes the foxtail millet flour and honey incorporated in Palani panchamirtham. The Kodai banana churros with salted caramel sauce was luscious. 

The Nilgiris trifle pudding was top-notch. For chai lovers, the masala chai tres leches was something unique and appealing.

The Kurinji: Foods of the Western Ghats is on till April 19 at the Wild Garden Cafe at Amethyst.