Mustard: Where Bengal meets the French, creating a hypnotic amalgamation of flavours

CHENNAI: At this inventive path-breaking restaurant, Mustard, executive chef Rajan Mhatre, seem to have the keys to a chamber filled with flavours of Bengal and French, making people go gaga over the mesmerising amalgamation, which the people of Chennai have been missing out.

Inspired by the use of mustard in its copious forms in both Bengali and French cuisine, Mustard brings together the finest of the gourmet West and the banquet of the East. How often do you hear of such a peculiar merger between countries far from one another?

The longing to curate regional and authentic cuisine, brought Punam Singh and Shilpa Sharma, the founders of Mustard, in unison to create this magic, spread over 3500 square feet on the second floor of Pharos Hotel, in Nungambakkam, Chennai.

“After a successful career in retail, at 53, I finally followed my dreams and started Mustard. First in Goa as a cafe, not knowing it will take us here, all the way to Mumbai, and now Chennai,” says Punam.

For the unversed, in the 18th century, French captured large parts of artistic Bengal and left us with some of the most mouth-watering delicacies, which are inspired by the flavours of Bengal.

“We, at Mustard, remain true to both cuisines. Here, Bengal meets the French, not in fusion, but in the flavours that will make you crave for more,” says chef Rajan, who has previously worked under Michelin Star chef Gary Rhodes, for two years, assisting with two completely new menus, in the UK.

The diner revolves around the concept of a Resto-Bar, exploring carefully curated Indian and European cuisines, with a breathtaking poolside view, as well as indoor seating options. One can start with their Tamarind picante, a cocktail savoury and rich, an all-time favourite shaken to perfection. It has the right balance of spice and tanginess, which is delicately smoked to exquisiteness. There is a mocktail option as well.

The starters are a Healthy vegetable platter, a delight for fitness enthusiasts and yet delicious. The platter consists of quinoa with apricots and dry figs, along with cherry tomato with an avocado dip. Pumpkin puree and beetroot, provencal vegetables, and grilled zucchini with yoghurt dip complete the appetizer. For the ones looking out to start with something buttery and piquant, Parsley butter prawns, cooked in garlic parsley butter, is a must-try.

Now comes the main course, with the ‘melt in the mouth’ puri, Luchi, puffed fried bread made from white flour. The Luchi rules supreme as Bengal’s all-time favourite, now even of Chennaiites. One can pair this up with the Railway mutton curry- a cuisine developed by the entourage of cooks and bearers, who travelled with the officers serving in the then Bengal Nagpur Railways, in Indian colonial times.

Gokul pitha, one of their signatures, is a dumpling of jaggery and coconut, dipped generously in milk, flour and semolina batter, fried later to a beautiful golden brown hue. The chewy outer layer, dunked in syrup perfumed with the season’s new jaggery, is the right amount of sweetness you are looking for in your life.

Cheese cakes are not for everybody. But for those who are keen on a well-balanced Cheese cake, it is cheesy enough to set the mood with your loved one.

The ambience is well-crafted by Vikram Singh of The Figmentist, the architecture firm, who incorporated small highlights of French and the Bengal, translating the space into a homely, country style, rustic space, totally resonating with the style of cuisine that they offer. The place is filled with high energy, retro music, adding to the overall aura of the restaurant.

The diner also has some exciting additions to its existing menu. “We are introducing Bar bites menu, and a specially curated Hi-Tea menu which would have mini Sandwiches, Crêpes, Scones, Cookies, and Pastries. We will also incorporate an express lunch menu for corporate guests, and a bento Meal box will also be curated for office lunch, which will be delivered to them,” explains Praveen Mathias, head of operations.