GI tag sought for intricately designed Salem ‘kolusu’

COIMBATORE: Handmade, intricate and recognizable designs of silver kolusu (anklets) made in Salem are undoubtedly a much sought after jewel among women in Tamil Nadu.

Nevertheless, the anklets made in this part of the region are also in huge demand across the world with export orders coming from several South East Asian nations such as Singapore and Malaysia.

“Nearly, 60 per cent of the anklets sold nationally are from Salem, making it a key manufacturing hub. It has gained popularity in states like Maharashtra, Andhra Pradesh, Telangana and Kolkata,” said P Sanjai Gandhi, government advocate, High Court of Madras and Intellectual Property Rights (IPR) Attorney.  

He had filed an application for Geographical Indications (GI) on behalf of ‘Salem Kolusu Urpathiyalargal Kaivinai Nala Sangam’ and ‘Salem Managar Thangam, Velli, Vairam Nagai Viyabarigal Sangam.’

A complex process goes behind the production of the kolusu, which are relatively shinier than those manufactured elsewhere in India. Significantly, the ‘thalakolusu’ is a design unique to Salem and made specifically for infants. It is wound in a manner that the anklet expands even as the infant grows upto four years.

There are over 10,000 silver ‘kolusu’ manufacturing units in Salem with over one lakh people dependent on the sector. Key hubs of production in the district include Shevapet, Siddharkoil, Ariyakavundanur, Panangadu and Sivanthapuram.

The historical background of ‘kolusu’ production in Salem can be traced to a community of traders and artisans, who migrated from Saurashtra in the beginning of 20th century. They developed an affinity towards making silver anklets after the British rulers imposed restrictions on textile trade. Its production spans over 30 steps and is immensely skill and labour intensive requiring a significant amount of training to master the art.

Sanjai Gandhi, who was instrumental in getting GI tag for around 30 unique products in Tamil Nadu, said that Chief Minister MK Stalin’s announcement to set up a multi-purpose production centre for the benefit of silver anklet manufacturers in Salem will push for the upliftment of those involved in the trade.