Chennai's Avartana redefines Indian fine dining with innovation, tradition, and global recognition
Recently, Avartana at ITC Grand Chola was ranked as the best restaurant in India’s Top 50 diners. DT Next spoke to the chef culinare of the restaurant, Nikhil Nagpal, to learn about the hard work that went into this recognition and what the city needs to focus on to expand further.
(L-R) Fennel Panacotta; Distilled Tomato Rasam; Shimmering lights inside Avartana (Photo credit: Manivasagan)
CHENNAI: As we entered Avartana restaurant, the dazzling lights and Alleppey backwaters-inspired wall design immediately caught our eyes. Pleasant music and a neat ambience welcomed us. Notably, Avartana was ranked number one in India’s Top 50 restaurants and also received gold at the Tamil Nadu Tourism Awards 2024 for the best-themed restaurant. Additionally, two other restaurants in the city also made it to the Top 50 list.
Chef culinare Nikhil Nagpal greeted us with a broad smile and contentment. “Rooted in the rich heritage of Indian cuisine, we continuously strive to reimagine traditional flavours through avant-garde techniques. This milestone is not just an accolade but a reflection of our entire team’s unwavering passion and dedication. Their craftsmanship and creativity elevate every dish into an art form. We are deeply grateful for the honour and extend our heartfelt appreciation to our patrons, whose continued support inspires us to redefine the culinary landscape with every plate we serve,” he expresses.
Chef Nikhil Nagpal with the awards
Even today, the fine dining experience doesn’t always resonate with many in the city, as they often compare the quantity served to the cost paid. “It’s about the experience. We began Avartana in 2017. Prior to that, we spent two years researching the cuisines, the delicacies that would be on the menu, and the presentation as well. There was never any doubt that the quantity would be less when it comes to portion size. We offer a 7 to 13-course menu. As the menu size increases, the portion size also increases,” he explains.
Avartana is known for serving traditional food with an international twist. Talking about the signature dishes that have caught the attention of many customers, the chef shares, “Given the nature of our set menu concept, it is not customary to single out a specific signature dish. However, the distilled French-pressed rasam holds a unique position across all our menus, transcending its humble origins to become a defining element of the Avartana experience. The fennel pannacotta stands out as the most photographed creation. Its nuanced flavour profile makes it a favourite not just on the palate but also through the lens.”
Chennai’s culinary scene is becoming vibrant and expanding rapidly. The inclusion of three diners from the city in the Top 50 list is a testament to its growing prominence as a culinary epicenter. “The recognition reflects the evolving appreciation for Chennai’s blend of tradition and innovation. To further elevate Chennai’s standing on the global culinary stage, it should focus on curating immersive storytelling, pioneering new techniques, and fostering sustainable practices. The city holds opportunities to spotlight hyper-regional cuisines, delving deeper into the diverse culinary traditions of Tamil Nadu and reviving obscure recipes and techniques. Furthermore, the city could explore the elevation of street food culture into curated gourmet experiences, allowing iconic local flavours to shine in elevated settings without losing their authenticity,” he suggests.
With people becoming more health-conscious and keen to know what and why they eat a certain food, chef Nikhil Nagpal sees this both as a challenge and an opportunity for chefs. “It necessitates a paradigm shift, not merely in technique but in philosophy toward crafting menus that are as mindful as they are indulgent. Ingredients must now be sourced with greater deliberation, often favouring organic, local, or responsibly harvested produce to align with the expectations. Moreover, accommodating diverse dietary restrictions - be it gluten-free, vegan, or allergen-sensitive - demands both creativity and precision. It challenges chefs to reimagine traditional recipes without compromising on their essence or appeal,” he states.
India’s position in the global culinary landscape is firm and growing. Adding further to this, chef Nikhil Nagpal remarks, “Renowned for its vast repertoire of regional cuisines, India offers a culinary narrative that embodies a confluence of history, culture, and artistry. Its rising focus on sustainability, indigenous ingredients, and hyper-local dining experiences positions it as a formidable contender in the global culinary discourse.”
