Once thriving, now fading: The silent decline of the Anglo-Indian community at Ponmalai Railway Colony

TIRUCHY: Gone are the days when the streets in the Railway Colony at Ponmalai would brim with love and joy as the members of the Anglo-Indian community would never miss the Christmas festivities but lately their celebrations have been confined to houses as the population has plummeted.

“We are heartbroken,” says Hanzel Ross, a visibly shattered retired railway employee gazing at the empty streets. Hanzel’s frustration stems from an overwhelming decline in the number of Anglo-Indians from over 25,000 in Golden Rock and around 15,000 in other parts of Tiruchy to less than 500.

Most of the Anglo-Indians were well-off in the past as most of them were employed in railways. The railways had built them quarters which, at present, are in a dilapidated condition. Gradually most of them left the place seeking a good fortune. “Once, music and songs would flow all along the streets but now, it looks pathetic and ghosty,” Hanzel said.

Hanzel Ross’s grandfather had worked in the railways during the British period and his father worked post-independence. Hanzel noted how it was easy for them to secure a job in the railways as they had a good command of the English language.

“We mingle with locals, but at the same time never compromise with our traditions. Many of us have Dutch or Portuguese roots, and our surnames have been passed down through generations. We were earlier referred to as Euro-Asians. ‘Anglo-Indian’ is a term of convenience,” says Lynda Peppin, a retired teacher.

“We are all in touch though the younger generations started migrating abroad in the 1950s. But we ensure we never miss social gatherings, particularly the Christmas festivities. In those days, we used to gather in the Ponmalai Railway Institute. But now, as times changed, we book halls in the city and no one misses any gathering whether it is a birthday celebration or wedding event,” recalled Lynda.

“Every family would have at least six children and the entire colony would be filled with children's laughter. During festival times, the place would turn into a carnival. We are a fun-loving community and weekends for us, mean get-togethers, dancing, singing, playing bingo, and fancy dress competitions,” Lynda said.

Meanwhile, KC Neelamegam (59), a railway employee whose family lived in the railway colony for three generations said, “I lived in a street where the majority were Anglo-Indians. As children, even if we did small good things, they would appreciate and encourage us.”

He further added during Christmas and New Year, the colony would be in a celebratory mood which is missing now.

“I still remember them dancing on the wooden floor of the Railway Institute Hall throughout the night. The rhythmic sound from their dance steps is audible even till our houses,” recounts Neelamegam.

Because there were many Anglo-Indian teachers in the Railways Mixed Higher Secondary School at Ponmalai, many children acquired the English language efficiently.

“For instance, my youngest brother studied in that school. After finishing the catering course, he got a job in the USA and settled there mainly because he got well-versed in English with the help of those teachers,” said Neelamegam.

However, gradually, many Anglo-Indians left the Railway Colony due to economic reasons as job opportunities dried up.

Doulas Freeman, a retired employee of Golden Rock railway workshop, explains in the past, many Anglo-Indian girls pursued teacher training at Church Park Anglo-Indian Teacher Training School in Chennai and came to work as teachers in Tiruchy.

“But now, even in private schools a degree in education is mandatory and so our people went abroad in search of employment as Anglo-Indians are most preferred,” he said, adding that many have obtained good jobs with better pay scales and settled in Australia, UK, USA, and Canada.

This was one main reason that rendered many households in Ponmalai quiet, pathetic, and ghostly because senior citizens are the only people living here now. Most of their children are abroad and they come to Ponmalai only during festivals, particularly Christmas.

Ballroom at railway institute hall, a testimony of their joyful days

The Railway Institute Hall in Tiruchy, built by the British in 1897, was considered the hub of Anglo-Indians’ social life in the city, especially towards the end of the year. The community comes together and makes merry during Christmas and New Year celebrations starting on December 23 and ending on January 2.

According to senior members, the hall built in the colonial style with high ceilings was initially functioning as a staff recreation club. With arched doorways that open to passages on the side to accommodate large crowds, the stone-floored hall has hosted many social gatherings that involve music and dance. The hall is making a comeback as the railway authorities have been carrying out elaborate refurbishment works.

A similar ballroom at Ponmalai railway colony once played a vital role in enhancing the social lives of Anglo-Indians. Music and dance were always part of their social gatherings. The ballroom had a wooden floor to accommodate dancing couples who would remain enticed in feet tapping sounds. However, the wooden floors have been replaced with stone floors now.

“During the weekends and special occasions, the ballroom used to be filled with the community members whose celebrations span from dusk to dawn,” recalls J Benjamin (71), an auditor, whose family lived in the railway colony for three generations.

The building has been renovated for other purposes. There is a library now and it has also become a meeting place for retired people now.

Benjamin, a non-Anglo Indian, recalled that Anglo-Indians were very particular about their dress code, behaviour and attitudes. However, over time, the Anglo-Indian women started wearing sarees and have also started speaking in Tamil. The interracial marriages have rendered the community more ethnically diverse than before.

Speaking on how they were open to adapting different cultural practices, he said, “Many women started wearing saree, bindi, and mangalsutra. They even draw ‘kolams’, light kuthuvilakku (lamps) during celebrations, and even light small lamps for the Karthigai Deepam festival,” Benjamin said.

Once experts in sports, now nowhere near railway ground

The railway ground which is the centre of attraction in Ponmalai railway colony was once dominated by the Anglo-Indian community members as they excelled in the games like cricket, hockey, and football and even bagged several cups and trophies in national-level tournaments.

“The non-Anglo-Indian people were just spectators,” recalls KC Neelamegam (59), a railway employee and environmentalist.

Neelamegam, whose family has been residing in the railway colony for three generations, said that he would sit in the distance and watch how the Anglo-Indians played. “We used to admire their expertise and see how they move around. Every year, they bring laurels to Ponmalai and they used to tour across the country participating in tournaments,” he said.

He pointed out that in a positive and healthy development, the youth from the Anglo-Indian community eventually started mingling with other youth and taught them sports.

“Gradually the scenario changed and many non-Anglo-Indian youths ventured into the railway ground and various teams playing for Ponmalai railway colony,” he said.

“In the past, the ground used to be filled with Anglo-Indian youth. But now only handpicked Anglo-Indians are in the sports as the population shrank due to migration abroad,” he explained.