Fruity fusion: How Chennai-based chefs are revolutionising savoury dishes
From the tart notes of apples enhancing a duck consommé to pineapple adding a vibrant twist to curries, these inventive dishes are transforming the way we think about fruit in cuisine
Chef Manish Uniyal and Chef Mayank Kulshreshtha with their dishes
CHENNAI: Using fruits in savoury dishes has long been a tradition in many Indian households, but now, restaurants are catching on to this trend as well. We got in touch with a few city chefs to talk about how their innovative fruit-based savoury creations have captivated diners and become crowd favourites. “The range of taste profiles that various fruits provide can span from sweet to acidic,” begins Manish Uniyal, Executive Chef at Hyatt Regency Chennai. “Though fruits are mostly associated with desserts, I thought it would be interesting to introduce their tart notes into savoury dishes.”
Mayank Kulshreshtha, Arearuit-based savoury dishes, Indian cuisine, Manish Uniyal, Hyatt Regency Chennai, Mayank Kulshreshtha, ITC Hotels, ITC Grand Chola Executive Chef South at ITC Hotels and Executive Chef at ITC Grand Chola emphasises that fruits add an instant freshness and crunch to dishes. “Their natural sweetness enhances the complexity and balance of savoury dishes. We consider a fruit’s acidity, texture, and inherent sweetness to complement or contrast with savoury elements. The choice of spices and herbs also determines the type of fruit used in the dish,” says Mayank.
When deciding which fruits to pair with savoury ingredients, Manish explains, “Certain herbs with sweet aromas, like sage, go well with acidic fruits such as green apples. Conversely, sweet fruits pair well with fragrant herbs like mint and basil. One of my favourites has been apple and duck consommé, prepared for a wine dinner. We created a zero-waste menu using duck bones stewed with tart apples to cut down the gamey flavours, resulting in a delicious soup.”
At ITC Grand Chola, a fortified fruit ensemble features hard fruits and berries paired with house-made cashew butter, coconut, and chilli sambol, served as small plates. Other innovative dishes include Amrudh aur Makhana curry, pineapple curry, Angoor-Paneer ki Sabzi, pineapple gojju, and Amrudi Dakk (roasted guava filled with reduced milk, grapes, and nuts, simmered in guava puree, khoya gravy, and served with poori) and zarsht pulao (dried Kashmiri purple berries cooked with basmati rice on dum).
Apple and duck consommé
Balancing the sweetness of fruits with savoury elements is crucial, and Manish does this skillfully. “A careful use of certain spices and herbs can bridge the gap between sweetness and savoury elements in dishes,” he says
Pulao at ITC is made with dried Kashmiri purple berries
Mayank adds that to achieve this balance, spices, herbs, and umami-rich components are employed to harmonise the sweetness of fruits with savoury flavours. “Fruits absorb flavours exceptionally well when marinated or compressed,” Mayank notes.
Diners have embraced these fruit-based dishes for their vibrant flavours and innovative approach, often leading to repeat orders. “Fruit-based tapas and appetisers are especially popular for meetings and corporate events at our banquets, categorised under ‘Alert Meets’,” Mayank shares with a smile. He cites citrus fruits and pineapple as his personal favourites, followed by watermelon. “Citrus fruits impart an immediate freshness to savoury dishes, while watermelon’s aqueous nature complements a wide range of flavours,” he adds.