Raw Mango finds south markets ripe for the picking: Sanjay Garg

The designer, whose saris and suits are a favourite among Bollywood’s A-List actresses, talks about the idea behind opting for a gradual expansion of retail outlets across metros, as opposed to a full-on expansion, like many brands.

Garg says, “Our retail plans are based on opportunities and finding the right spaces to house our stores, not just opening X number of stores within a year. New Delhi is home base for us and we are extremely happy to be opening a second store in the city early next year. We previously stocked our sari collections at stores in Chennai and Hyderabad, and Cinnamon, Bengaluru. So, we knew that there is a demand and an appreciation for our garments, which is why we have now brought our flagship store on Walton Road, Bengaluru.”

Garg has been credited with giving a new lease of life to Chanderi saris. Having recently spoken at the India Design Forum session held as part of the Bengaluru ByDesign initiative, he said it was great to see more involvement in the design dialogue and hopes the conversation keeps growing from here. “There are so many weaves, materials to explore, in our ‘Three Shuttle’ collection. We have saris woven in Telangana using the three-shuttles and attakatam techniques.”

His back to basics aesthetic - having non-models and everyday people model for his line of saris and not using mannequins in the stores is a far cry from today’s modern retail display norms. He says, “We are constantly working towards questioning what really defines or makes up ‘model’. We are happy exploring the diversity of India’s incredible women. I don’t have a favourite or a muse as such - the idea of one woman or a muse is an unrealistic ideal - I would hope that our designs cater to every type of woman – be it a celebrity or not. We want you to leave our stores and designs with something that serves a purpose and is practical, and not just because you were allured by it on the surface - which is also why we don’t have a window display or mannequins.”

Garg also speaks about the need for politics and fashion to be occupying a common space. And politics has been a subject close to his heart. Garg says that he is politically aware and active and thinks that clothing is linked to what is happening in society, cultural and in politics. “My work questions traditional ideals, challenges norms and innovates – all these are political tenets too,” he says.

Speaking about keeping Indian artistry and craftsmanship in textiles, alive, he says, “We need to focus on the development and longevity of our craft, textiles and heritage - it’s not just about fashion, textile and handloom, but the way forward needs to speak to many communities and the human condition. It is important to recognise the value on a national and regional scale.”

On his long-term growth plans, Garg says that planning for the future in terms of the growth of the business and new opportunities is on top of his mind. His focus is on “not becoming complacent within a narrow definition of design.”

He says “I intend to continue expanding boundaries of the brand, and who I am as a designer through more stores of our own, and to sell our products to a larger audience both in India and globally. Presently, the collections showcased at our presentations at fashion shows/fashion weeks are available in all stores.”