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Pineapple gothsu: A dish that’s a combination of sweet, sour and spice
The entrance of my ancestral home (agraharam) in Thiruvidaimaruthur near Kumbakonam was decked with flowers like marigold, jasmine, roses, and lilies. The house was situated near an ancient Mahalingam temple which was, historically, the favourite of the Cholas and Pandya kings.
By
migrator
migrator
Chennai
Our huge, old house revealed the heritage of our forefathers. They decorated the house for my cousin Mohana’s wedding to Mathrubutham. It was in 1965; I was a young school girl studying in Kodai, a totally westernised youngster who could neither read nor write Tamil or knew anything much about rituals, customs or Vedic heritage. The wedding was an eye-opener to me, my siblings and many of my cousins, who were city-born and bred.
The thinai of the house and the huge central mitham (open area) with an enclosed verandah was the most fascinating play area for us. Mohana, who was probably just two years older than my oldest sister was 17 when she was marrying Mathrubutham, who was 20. It was so fascinating to watch the entire process of a traditional wedding.
Women outshone each other — decked in kanjeevarams, bangles, anklets, diamond nose pins and earrings. Men wore spotless gold and white dhoti. The fresh smell of aromatic Kumbakonam coffee wafted across the house. It was not just the coffee, the entire house was filled with smells of various kinds of food cooked by samayal mamas (traditional brahmin cooks) with years of experience. I was happily lapping in all the traditions and loving every bit of it, especially the colours, music and aroma of food. I wore a pavadai davani (half saree) for the first time.
Amid all the noise and mantra chanting, there were people eating at one side. They made a vast variety of dishes. Many dishes like badam halwa, milagu kuzhambu, panakam, neer moru, keerai vadai, sutta kathirikai pachadi, pavakkai pitlai, vengaya sambar, manga moru kuzhambu, vathal kuzhambu, ennai kathirikai curry, pomegranate rasam, vazhaithandu curry, potato podimas, various sweets like jangri, ladoo and payasam were served. But my grandmother’s favourite puli aval and pineapple gothsu was the taste catcher. The pineapple was not a common item and if it was served in the early 60s, it meant there is some foreign influence. The traditional gothsu that was served with pongal was kathirikai gothsu. But for some
reason, my grandmother, who had travelled to our place in Mumbai was fascinated with the pineapple gothsu served with puli aval. So, we decided to include the same dish for my cousin’s wedding. If my friend Bhanu had not rekindled my memories by mentioning pineapple gothsu, it would have lain dormant in my memory. Today, I share the recipe of pineapple gothsu.
— Chef Ramaa Shanker is the author of ‘Festive Offerings to the Gods: Divine Soul Recipes’
INGREDIENTS
Sweet pineapple: ½ cup finely chopped
Tamarind paste: 1 tbsp
Jaggery/vellam: ½ tbsp powdered
Coconut oil: 1 tbsp
Salt to taste
Masala paste.
Urad dal: 2 1/2 tsp
Chana dal: 2 tsp
Methi/fenugreek seeds: ½ tsp
Sesame/yellu:1 tsp
Red chillies: 2
Cumin/jeera: ½ tsp
Coconut: desiccated or fresh 4 tsp
Turmeric: ¼ tsp.
Asafetida: ¼ tsp.
For seasoning — Ghee: 1 tsp
Mustard: ½ tsp
Hing/asafoetida: 1tsp
curry leaves
METHOD
- Keep all dry ingredients on a plate. Dry roast urad dal and chana dal till they start to change colour
- Add sesame seeds and jeera and dry roast till they release the aroma
- Add dry red chillies and dry roast for a few seconds
- When they all turn light golden, add desiccated coconut, mix and turn off heat. Let it cool. If you are adding fresh coconut, roast till light brown
- Now grind all the ingredients to a smooth powder or semi paste.
- While grinding, add ¼ tsp asafetida and turmeric
- In a pan, add ½ tsp oil and saute the minced pineapple till cooked
- Add tamarind paste, jaggery and saute till they all mix well and get cooked
- Let the mixture simmer on low fire and now add the spice paste
- Add salt and mix well. Switch it off.
- Heat the ghee in a small frying pan and add mustard seeds, asafoetida and curry leaves. When it splutters, add to the pineapple gothsu
- Serve with pongal, puli aval (beaten rice flakes upma), or with bagala bath
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