Craft meets wearability: Anu Merton on balancing artistry, practicality in jewellery

CHENNAI: Popular jewellery designer Anu Merton’s approach to design not only celebrates the intricate craftsmanship of traditional jewellery but also embraces the industry’s evolving trends. In an interview with DT Next, Anu delves into her design process

1. Can you describe your design process from conception to final creation?

My design process is inspired by India’s raw beauty and personal memories. Each piece starts with a surge of emotion - imagining how the jewellery will come to life and make the wearer feel. I work with a variety of materials, from silver and gold to quartz, and am not restricted by metal preferences. The process begins with an idea or inspiration, followed by sketching and creating CAD models. I then sample different colours, finishes, and stones. Once satisfied with the final sample, we produce a limited number of pieces or offer them as made-to-order on the website

2. How do you incorporate traditional techniques and cultural elements into modern jewellery designs?

I use traditional techniques like kundan meena/jadau, where a thin foil on the back of stones enhances their shine. This technique, largely unique to India, is often applied to polkis and semi-precious stones to mimic traditional gold and polki jewellery. Cultural elements are woven into my designs through motifs like chaand phool, lotus, and other flora and fauna. For instance, a simple bird motif can be transformed into a modern, wearable pendant, making traditional designs accessible for everyday use.

3. What are some of the biggest challenges you’ve faced in the jewellery design industry, and how have you overcome them?

The jewellery industry is still largely male-dominated, and progress towards gender inclusivity in leadership is slow. Although I’m working to address this, it’s a challenge I haven’t fully overcome yet. Another challenge is finding skilled kaarigars (artisans) who are open to working with semi-precious metals and not just gold. There’s a lingering snobbery around gold that complicates hiring and preserving traditional techniques. I’ve been fortunate to build a skilled team in Jaipur, but I’m concerned about whether this craft will continue to thrive and attract new talent. To address this, I focus on fair compensation, creating a kaarigar-friendly work environment, and nurturing a skilled, motivated team to ensure the heritage of traditional Indian jewellery is preserved.

4. How do you see the jewellery design industry evolving, and how are you adapting to these changes?

The jewellery design industry is evolving with advancements like computer-aided design, 3D printing, and innovative materials. There’s also growing awareness and pride in handmade Indian jewellery, which reflects a shift in consumer values. Additionally, the industry is moving from an artisan-dependent model to a more collaborative approach. Previously, designs relied heavily on the kaarigar’s skills, but now the process involves a team where designers handle the vision, and kaarigars focus on technique. This shift allows for greater specialisation and creativity within the team. I’m adapting by embracing these technologies and focusing on a team-based approach, which enhances both efficiency and creativity.

5. How do you balance artistic expression with wearability in your designs?

Balancing artistic expression with wearability is crucial and challenging. Wearability often takes precedence over pure artistry. I consider how and when I will wear a piece, which guides the design process and ensures practicality. Designing with affordable metals like brass and silver alloys adds complexity. These materials cannot match the finesse of gold due to their different properties. I strive to create pieces that maintain high quality while being more accessible, and understanding the trade-offs involved. This balance between vision and practicality is a challenge I embrace.

– Anu Merton’s collection is on view from September 6 to 7 at The Amethyst Room, Chamiers Road.