Flavours reimagined: Why dining in Chennai is no longer basic

CHENNAI: Chefs and mixologists are always finding new ways to excite the taste buds and win the hearts of their diners. One of the most common questions they get from guests is — "What's new on the menu?" or "Is there any unique flavour combination we should try?" To keep up with this curiosity, city chefs share how they constantly experiment and introduce fresh, unexpected flavours that surprise their customers and make them come back for more.

"Chocolate is a big thing now," says Sujan Mukherjee, Executive Chef at Taj Coromandel, as he talks about the growing scope of flavour experiments in the food industry. "We get a variety of chocolates based on their percentage of bitterness — 55, 60, 75, 80 per cent and so on. We've done interesting pairings like chocolate with hazelnuts, maraschino cherries, raisins, fennel, and strawberries. Spice-infused chocolates have also gained a strong fan base," he shares.

While introducing new flavours in the à la carte menu is limited, Sujan finds that large-scale banquet menus offer more room to experiment. "In à la carte, we may add three or four new dishes, but when it comes to banquets — where we cater to 300 to 500 guests — we can introduce unique flavours. With so many people tasting the dish, we get instant feedback, and the ‘wow’ factor is easier to achieve," he says.

Keeping up with changing preferences, Sujan and his team have also started experimenting with South Indian flavours in Mediterranean mezzes. "Since people are becoming health-conscious, mezzes have gained popularity. But we know Indians love bold flavours, so we added a twist by introducing curry leaf hummus, podi hummus, and spicy labneh (using South Indian chillies). It’s healthy, yet packed with flavour," he shares.

Their experiments extend to yogurts and raitas, where they’ve introduced unique varieties like green pepper raita and cayenne pepper raita, which have been well-received. One of their most interesting creations, Sujan reveals, is the Rasgulla Kofta Curry. "We take rasgullas, wash them thoroughly to remove the sugar, and then cook them in a gravy (made from ginger-cumin paste). The rasgullas absorb the flavour of the gravy, making it a surprising and delicious dish," he says.

The constant demand from diners for "What's new on the menu?" keeps pushing chefs like Sujan to innovate. "Ingredients may be limited, but spices are abundant in Indian kitchens. The real challenge is to keep experimenting and offering something new that brings diners back for more," adds the chef.

Mayank Kulshreshtha, Area Executive Chef – South, ITC Hotels and Executive Chef, ITC Grand Chola, says, “We are always experimenting with flavours to create something memorable for our diners.” One of the most interesting combinations his team has worked on is Jerusalem artichoke with dark chocolate and gorgonzola. "The dish combines the earthiness of Jerusalem artichoke with the sharp, bold notes of Gorgonzola, elevated by 67 per cent dark chocolate. It’s a unique blend of flavours that surprises diners," he shares.

At Avartana, their signature South Indian restaurant, Mayank and his team have also crafted a raw mango pudding with a ghee candle — a dish that merges sweetened raw mango with a tempering of Salem chili, mustard seeds, and curry leaves, bringing a beautiful balance of sweet, tangy, and spicy notes.

Speaking about pushing flavour boundaries, Mayank mentions how their bespoke menus allow them to introduce bold and unexpected combinations. "We’ve done dishes like chocolate-coated potato chips with chicken liver pâté, avocado and lotus stem crispers, and bitter gourd with shallot jam. Each dish is curated to give diners something they wouldn’t normally expect on a plate," he says.

The experimentation doesn’t end there. Even their bakery and confectionery section is constantly churning out innovative dessert pairings for their buffets. "We’ve done a Miso caramel and popcorn ice cream, parmesan sable with cracked pepper, and rosemary chocolate shards — each bringing a perfect balance of sweet, savoury, and umami," Mayank adds.

"The cocktail culture in the city has evolved. People are moving away from straight drinks and are now seeking something new and exciting in their cocktails," says Asraf Ali Khan, F&B Manager at Taj Club House, as he observes a noticeable shift in drinking preferences

To cater to this growing demand, the team at Taj Club House has introduced a Cocktail Tree — a creative presentation where 12 different cocktails are served together, each with a unique colour, flavour, and infusion. "If a group of eight or ten people walks in and they all want to try different cocktails, they don’t have to sit and order individually. Instead, our mixologist prepares 12 different cocktails using various infusions, and we present it as a cocktail tree. It’s a fun and engaging way to start the evening," Asraf shares.

The infusions play a major role in setting these cocktails apart. The mixologist keeps a few infusions ready in advance — some alcohol-based and some non-alcoholic. "We do infusions like blue pea tea, cold brew coffee, thyme-jasmine flower blends, and even walnut-infused whiskey. These are prepped beforehand so the mixologist can create something exceptional on the spot based on the guest’s preference," he says.

Among their signature cocktails, Asraf highlights a few standout combinations: blue pea tea, tender coconut, thyme, and gin; walnut-infused whiskey with beetroot juice, orange juice, and egg white; cold brew coffee blended with Malibu and mango pulp. "Guests now expect more than just the regular mojitos, Bloody Marys, Cosmopolitans, or Long Island Iced Teas. They walk in asking for something different — something that stands out. Our mixologists take it as a creative challenge and experiment with various ingredients to deliver unique flavours," Asraf says.

The cocktail tree, in particular, has become a major hit among guests. "It’s not just about serving a drink; it’s about creating an experience. When we bring out a tree loaded with 12 different, colourful cocktails, it becomes a visual treat and a great way to start a gathering. People love clicking pictures and sharing the experience," he adds.

According to Asraf, what sets their bar apart is the passion and creativity of their mixologists. "Rather than just pouring straight drinks, our mixologists understand each ingredient, experiment with it, and come up with combinations that no one expects. They do a lot of trials, and sometimes the most unexpected combinations turn out to be brilliant. This keeps both our guests and our team excited," he concludes.