Indo-French craftsmanship meets modern fashion, now in Chennai

CHENNAI: Founded by Indo-French designers Hemant Sagar and Didier Lecoanet, Genes Lecoanet Hemant is a ready-to-wear brand born from the house of Lecoanet Hemant. The duo began its career as a couturier in Paris before bringing their refined craftsmanship to India in 2000. The brand’s essence is rooted in nature and the arts. In line with their legacy, Genes Lecoanet Hemant recently launched its first store in Chennai. In a conversation with DT Next, the designers Hemant Sagar and Didier Lecoanet discuss their creative journey, the vision behind their brand, and their future aspirations in the fashion world.

Q: Your journey as designers has spanned both India and France. Can you share how your backgrounds influenced the creation of Genes Lecoanet Hemant?

Didier: Our journey as designers has been anything but conventional. We started in Paris, deeply immersed in high fashion, before transitioning to ready-to-wear about 20 years ago. This shift brought us to India, where we spent considerable time experimenting and discovering the right formula for this market.

Hemant: India’s fashion landscape is dominated by festive and wedding wear, which is the equivalent of high fashion. It was important for us to create something distinctly different—a category of expressive, modern designs that cater to everyday wear. Each collection is fresh, and contemporary, and encourages personal expression.

Q: Genes is synonymous with Indo-French fusion fashion. What inspired you both to blend Indian artistry with Parisian craftsmanship in your designs?

Didier: The inspiration comes from our deep connection to both cultures. Indian artistry, with its rich heritage, and Parisian craftsmanship, with its precision and elegance, have both shaped our design philosophy. By blending these two worlds, we create collections that resonate with both authenticity and modernity.

Your brand is central to the concept of seasonless fashion. How do you approach designing collections that transcend traditional seasonal trends?

Hemant: Seasonless fashion is about offering something fresh and distinctive each time. Our philosophy encourages customers to mix and match pieces from past seasons with new collections, ensuring longevity and versatility. Our goal is to create wardrobe staples that seamlessly adapt across the day.

Q: Can you describe how you approach the intersection of traditional Indian techniques and modern French design sensibilities in your collections?

Didier: It’s a subtle but thoughtful process. For example, a checkered pattern might nod to the motifs of Kanchipuram textiles, or the vibrant graphics and botanicals in our prints reflect India’s rich heritage. India’s diversity is a source of inspiration - ranging from its architecture to its culture. Similarly, French design’s modernity and sophistication bring balance. Interestingly, our identity shifts depending on where we are - when in France, we’re the ‘Indians of Paris’, and in India, we’re the ‘Frenchies’.

Chennai is home to your latest store. What made you choose this city for your new location, and how do you see the local market embracing your designs?

Hemant: Chennai has an undeniable warmth and welcoming spirit, which made it a natural choice for our new store. The city’s fashion sensibilities align well with our ethos - our daywear offers a refreshing alternative to traditional attire, while our eveningwear respects cultural traditions.

Q: Sustainability is a growing focus in the fashion industry. How does Genes Lecoanet Hemant incorporate sustainable practices into its design and production processes?

Hemant & Didier: It’s our priority to use natural fibres and adopt digital printing techniques to minimise waste. Our research extends to the pigments we use, ensuring they are as eco-friendly as possible. While it’s true that fashion is inherently polluting, the solution isn’t to stop wearing clothes but to innovate.

Q: What challenges have you faced while merging two distinct cultures - Indian and French - into a cohesive brand?

Hemant & Didier: Merging Indian and French cultures requires a deep understanding of both. We don’t just borrow elements; we know each culture intimately, down to its roots. This allows us to create a brand that is global in outlook yet local in its essence.