Margazhi season: Where music, dance, and sabhas' flavours harmonize amid tradition and innovation

CHENNAI: A season that celebrates classical music and dance, Margazhi fills the streets of Chennai with its misty yet vibrant energy. It’s a treat not just for the ears and eyes, but also for the rasikas’ taste buds. Sabha canteens are an integral part of fully experiencing the season’s mood.

As we come to the end of the Margazhi season, this year has been eventful for the sabha caterers. Arusuvai Arasu Caterers, who has been in the business for over two decades, were among the first to introduce the sabha canteen culture at the Music Academy. “We are a 75-year-old firm, known for our Thangathambalam Kalyana Virundhu. We took a break in the middle and returned to business after the pandemic,” says Kamesh Narayan, managing director of Arusuvai Arasu Caterers.

Some of the bestsellers during this year’s Margazhi were lychee payasam, thattu idli, dosa varieties, sambar, and rasam. “We don’t repeat our menu,” Kamesh adds. He emphasises that steamed dishes have been more popular compared to fried foods this season.

Gowtham from Sasthalaya Caterers believes that people’s response has reached new heights yearly. “People come with huge expectations,” he says. When asked about the expectations of the crowd, Gowtham reflects, “Tradition with innovation is the key. We shouldn’t alter the foundation, which is tradition, but we can innovate with the flavours. For example, thayir pachadi can be innovated by adding avocados instead of cucumbers. Paruppu usili can now be made using capsicum and corn.”

Sasthalaya’s iconic dishes this season included 10 varieties of dosa, cooked by people from Karaikudi to bring the authentic flavours of Chettinad. “Sabha canteens originally existed for rasikas to enjoy authentic delicacies after watching the concerts. Now, we even have separate crowds coming just for the food,” says Gowtham. He observes that the footfall from North Indian visitors was higher this time.

Kamesh believes that people flock to sabha canteens to experience tradition and culture at its fullest. “People from all walks of life and almost all age groups were seen. However, those above 30 formed the majority of the crowd,” he highlights.

On dealing with negative feedback, Gowtham points out that people have become choosy and more discerning about food. “We cannot satisfy everyone. Instead, we focus on catering to the general taste of the crowd. One person even asked for poori without oil,” he laughs.

For Kamesh, the popularity of the sabha canteen is due to its speciality. “This is the only season where people can immerse themselves in this flavourful feast. Social media plays a major role in attracting the younger crowd. The reach has expanded drastically. Word of mouth is also crucial,” explains Kamesh. “Instagram is filled with food-related content. Everyone has become a foodie now, and this has an impact on sabha canteens as well,” adds Gowtham.

The rasikas have mixed feelings about the food served at the canteens. Some feel the price is justified by the taste, while others believe it is overhyped. “I completely enjoyed the sabha canteen experience. As a Bharatanatyam exponent, this was my first time visiting the other side. I was taken away by the ammini kollukattai and the different varieties of dosa. To me, the price seemed quite reasonable,” shares Mahitha, a Bharatanatyam exponent.

Stylist Ratikha Venugopal, however, was disappointed with how the sabha canteens operated this year. “We were served Onam Sadhya, which I did not expect at a sabha canteen. I came to savour authentic Tamil cuisine. People should stick to traditions, as that is what the crowd expects,” she tells DT Next.

Apart from food, she also highlighted how the venue was not user-friendly. “We didn’t have proper car parking, and many elderly people attend these sabhas. There should be chairs for them to sit and rest, which was missing. I am a regular visitor to sabha canteens, and this is the first time I’ve experienced this,” she adds.

Overall, there are people who expect innovation, while others want to stick to tradition. Striking a perfect balance between the two is crucial for the caterers.